The only electronic device that operates 24/7 in our home. However, we rarely pay attention to that because the presence of refrigerators is more focused as a place to store food / food ingredients so that they are relatively durable. Refrigerators, whatever their shape and condition, will still consume electricity without stopping. If the refrigerator electricity consumption can be reduced, it will certainly save considerable costs, for you generator users
Refrigerator Size and Power Consumption
In conditions without (empty) content, the greater the capacity of the refrigerator, the greater the consumption of electric power is needed. It’s true that it is. In practice, this is determined by the thermostat unit sensor installed in the refrigerator. The cooling process carried out by the refrigerator does not take place continuously at any time.
The thermostat sensor functions as the lowest and highest temperature limit parameter needed to start and stop the cooling process. Determining the parameters of this thermostat sensor, can be set by us (the user) via the temperature level control button. Usually there are 4 temperature levels that we can set, namely: off, low, medium and high. Nowadays there are only 3 temperature levels that can be set, namely: low, medium and high. From what I tried, the four temperature levels will activate the cooling process (except “off”) at different time intervals. The higher the temperature level determined, the more often the frequency of the cooling process is carried out. Vice versa.
Seeing such a situation, in my opinion, the amount of electric power consumption from the last three temperature levels (low, medium and high) is the same. The difference lies in the timing and setting of the temperature level on the thermostat as a trigger for the engine when to start and stop operating in the cooling process.
Calculate the power consumption of the Refrigerator and Freezer
In a state of use (with content), the refrigerator’s power consumption is affected by the frequency of in and out food activities. Although, the refrigerator unit that is owned and used exactly the same in every home, the power consumption of each refrigerator is largely determined by the way the daily occupants use and habit. This is one factor that makes electricity consumption different from one house to another.
We cannot calculate the power consumption just by operating the refrigerator for just a few hours. The amount of power consumption in the defrost feature must also be taken into account. The problem is, for refrigerators with auto-defrost features, we don’t know when that feature is activated and how long the process lasts. Because, all that takes place automatically follows the condition of the interior of the refrigerator. Thus, to get a realistic hourly refrigerator power consumption is the total power consumption from usage within 24 hours of operation, for 2 weeks averaged. That was the most realistic time I knew during my experiment to get the actual power consumption in the fridge at home.
What if the calculation method is done by removing all the contents in the refrigerator first? If the action is to be carried out, simply by looking at the specifications of the power consumption listed on the body (back) of the refrigerator. No need to issue contents. The true power consumption of the refrigerator is when the device is used as it is for us to use the device everyday.
To find out the amount of “biggest” power consumed by a refrigerator at home, we must use the power consumption parameters when the refrigerator is in a defrost condition. Even though the refrigerator is not always in a defrost condition, we still have to prepare a backup of power consumption for defrost conditions. If we ignore it, there is a possibility that the MCB will “trip” when the refrigerator is about to defrost.
For example, a 1-door watt refrigerator is different from a 2-door refrigerator. For brands, there is no effect on the refrigerators of LG, Samsung, Polytron, or others, but the more features, the greater the wattage.
- Refrigerator 1 door : around 400-800 watts
- 2-door refrigerator : around 500-1250 watts
- Freezer : 600-1,000
-18 ° C (-64.4 ° F) (freezer)
0 ° C (32 ° F) (meat)
4 ° C (39.2 ° F) (cooler)
10 ° C (50 ° F) (vegetables), to put various types of food
|Cooling System||Direct Cooling|
|Refrigerant ( Non CFC )||R-134a|
|Dimension (W x H x D)||(535 x 1132 x 575) mm|
For example, if you want a generator to run a refrigerator and a freezer, the wattage (table 2) of the refrigerator would be 800 and the freezer would be 1,000. To select the correct size generator, you decide if both refrigerator and freezer are to start at the same time. If so, you would need (1,800 X 4) 7,200 watts. You would select the nearest larger wattage generator. If you can be certain both appliances will not start at the same time, you would only need 4,800 watts (to run the refrigerator while starting the freezer).
What Size Generator Do I Need?
Equipment that uses an elecro motor or dynamo such as a refrigerator and freezer requires a different calculation of power. Why is it different? Because refrigerators and freezers require large amounts of electricity when they first start. Power usage also varies depending on the starter system used. There are 2 types of starters used in general, namely DOL or direct on line and Star Delta. In general, if a refrigerator and freezer uses a DOL system, a generator with a capacity of 3-4 times is needed from the rated power of the refrigerator and freezer. For example: a fridge and freezer with rated power 50 HP with a spec 415 volt 3 phase; requires 150 KVA of electric power capacity to start and only 50 KVA when it is running normally, the recommended generator is 175 KVA.
like diesel generator, portable or gas-fueled generators.
If the same refrigerator and freezer uses the star delta system for the starter, then the electric power capacity needed for start is 76 KVA and only 50 KVA when it is running normally. The recommended generator is 88 KVA (Portable Generator) The selection of the starter system will have a major impact on the selection of the required generator capacity.
Watts on the refrigerator and freezer.
You need to know the amperes and volts in the refrigerator. The formula for determining watts is simple. Ampere is the amount of electricity used. Voltage measures the strength or voltage of the refrigerator and freezer.
- The number of watts equals amperes multiplied by volts. In other words, watts = x volt amperes. Sometimes, the formula is written with the abbreviation W = A x V.
- For example, if the electric current is 3 amperes (3A) and the voltage is 110 V, multiply 3 by 110 to get 330 W (watts). The formula is P = 3 A x 110 V = 330 W (P is power or power)
- Therefore watts are sometimes called volt-amperes. The ampere amount is usually stated on the circuit breaker. This number is the maximum ampere that can be received by the circuit. You can also specify voltages and amperes by looking at labels or usage manuals. In addition, you can also search for numbers in standard electronic devices (most small electronic devices and light fittings in homes require circuits of 15-20 amperes and large devices need 20–60 amperes. However, most household electronics such as refrigerators and a freezer of 120 volts and operates with 12 amperes or less. Large electronics such as electric stoves and clothes dryers require more electricity, are connected to 240 volt power circuits and may use 20–40 amperes depending on several factors. is 120 or 240 volts.
Determine the ampere or volt of the Refrigerator and Freezer in the same way.
You can rotate the formula to calculate it. For example, you have AC 24–40 electricity supply. That means your electricity supply is 240 volts and 40 watts.
- The power source can supply 1.6 amperes. The formula is 40-? X 24. So, share 40 with 24 to get the number 1.6.
- Here’s another reason for determining amperes and volts of refrigerators and freezers. Say you want to know how many watts are used by the refrigerator and freezer, and the label shows that the refrigerator and freezer use a certain amount of ampere. You can find out the number of volts that are usually used by refrigerators and freezers (by calling the manufacturer or searching for information on the internet), multiplying the two numbers, and producing an estimate of the wattage needed to run the refrigerator and freezer.
Understand why watts are important.
Power in watts is the amount of energy produced or used. Electricity bills are based on how many watts you use on your fridge or freezer. Basically, wattage shows how much energy an electronic device uses.
- Rated wattage is the number of watts needed to keep the electronic device on. For example, a refrigerator usually requires 500 watts to keep burning. You need to know the wattage at home if you want to save energy, add solar panels, or use a generator.
- The power source has AC and DC currents. AC is alternating current which constantly changes direction and is used in electrical installations in homes and offices. DC is direct current which only moves in one direction. Examples of DC use are in the refrigerator or freezer.
- Wattage surge is the number of watts needed as an initial pull when you first turn on the engine or an electronic compressor. For example, it takes 2,000 watts to power the engine and refrigerator compressor or freezer.
Try to save energy.
Watt is a basic power unit (electrical, mechanical, or thermal). The reason for understanding watts is to help save energy.
- Reduce wattage to save energy and costs. For example, there are two choices of refrigerators or freezers that you want to buy, one 500 watts and the other 400 watts. If a 400 watt refrigerator ball is cheaper, you might think it’s economical. However, over time, you will be more economical if you buy a 500 watt light bulb.
- Calculate the wattage difference with a simple calculation operation. In the case above is 100 watts (500 – 400). PLN collects electricity costs in kilowatts. To get kilowatts, for watts with 1,000. Then, multiply the number in the kilowatt with the usage hours. The result is kilowatts per hour (kwh). Then, multiply by electricity. That’s your bill.
- For example, you have 1 refrigerator and 1 freezer. Each of them is 100 watts. So, 1 x 100 = 100 watts. Share 1,000 watts with 1,000 to get 1 kw. Let’s say you use 2,000 hours of electricity per year. So, 1 x 2,000 hours per year = 2,000 kwh. For example, your electricity tariff is Rp1,000 per kwh. You have to pay 2,000 kwh x Rp1,000 = Rp.2,000,000 per year to use 1 refrigerator and 1 freezer.
Install wiring and instrumentation to fulfill National Electrical Code needs, native laws and therefore the needs of the ability provider. Single section standby generators square measure connected to the electrical line by a double-pole, double throw transfer switch.
Put the switch in an exceedingly watertight box and properly ground it, the central meter pole could be a common location. Install the switch between the watt hour meter and therefore the service disconnect (main fuse box). Note that the white (neutral) conductor is sometimes not switched, however some power suppliers need it’s switched conjointly. once the handle is up, the utility black and red conductors are connected to the load black and red conductors, respectively. within the down position, the load conductors are disconnected from the utility conductors and connected to the black and red conductors from the generators.